JOURNEY TO MONGOLIA: BUNKHAN TRIP
with Photographer Thomas Kelly and Upaya
July 2nd - 22nd, 2010
In the camp itself, beautiful yurts are nestled into a private valley, with cottonwood tree forest nearby and the Teel river a stones throw away. This is a great place for practitioners and families-- for writers, photographers or artists, mediators and yogis or those who love to read and soak in quiet wilderness. We can ride and explore and visit forests, rivers, hidden valleys and grasslands, and spend time with nearby nomads. Meals are lively engaged discourse filled with tales and poetry. Daily yoga and meditation practice is encouraged but optional. You’ll experience a rich introduction to the wilderness and nomads of this country. We'll be harvesting medicinal plants with local healers and joining nomads for their annual Nadam festival. We will ride up to the remote sacred Blue Lake, a special power place for the Mongol pilgrim. You don’t have to be an experienced rider to enjoy the horse trip travel. Our local Mongol horsemen have over seven years of experience guiding different levels of horsemanship and watch over us like children. This trip is a rare and wild time for meditation, practice, poetry, riding, and deep renewal.
DAILY ITINERARY:
Day 1(July 2)
Depart from USA. Mongolia is a popular summer destination so you'll need to book plane reservations way in advance. Korean Air (KE) via Seoul and United from the West Coast, are recommended carriers with direct flights to Ulaanbattar, Mongolia.
Day 2 (July 3)
Fly to Ulaanbattor. Wild Earth Journey staff will meet us at the airport and we will transfer by coach to the Imperial Hotel, a centrally located hotel within walking distance of museums and shops for a goodnights sleep.
Day 3 (July 4)
Orientation with Carroll/Thomas followed by a visit to Ganden Monastery, the seat of Buddhism in Mongolia. Although Buddhist monasteries were either destroyed or converted into museums during the Stalinist purges of the 1930s, Gaden Monastery continued to operate as a showpiece for government officials and today is a thriving monastic center. After lunch, visit Ulaanbaatar's Black Market to shop for traditional Dels, riding boots and silver horse bridles. Optional 5pm visit to the magnificent Chojin Lama Temple to enjoy a cultural performance of Tsam-mask dancing and listen to khoomii (throat singing).
Day 4 (July 5)
Following b’fast, travel by comfortable AC bus through Mongolian grasslands and arrive in late afternoon to Kharhorin, ancient capitol of Khublai Khan. Overnite at traditional ger camp.
Day 5 (July 6)
we start our day with a visit to beautiful Erdene Zhu monastery. Ghengis Khan and his son created the beautiful and legendary city of Kharhorin in the 13th century to serve as the heart of this monolithic, Mongol empire. There are only a few traces left of this once great city, but Mongolia's largest monastery, neighboring Erdene Zhu, was reputedly constructed from the ruins of Kharhorin in the 16th century. Erdene Zhu has been a place of Buddhist activity for more than 500 years. We will explore the monastery grounds and observe the monks as they perform their prayers and rituals. Drive to to Bunkhan in Bulgan Sum for sunset and supper. Gher camp.
Day 6-10 (July 7-11)
We ger camp next to the river, located next to the nomads camp. Optional morning yoga with Carroll and Thomas. Horse riding tips by Namkha, and horse riding practice in the vast valley of Teel. We can swim in the river, fish, practice archery or enjoy the forest solitude. The nomads beckon for those who wish interaction. Traditional Mongolian barbeque for the evening. On day 9 you'll be host to a mini Nadam, horse racing, wrestling and rodeo events and for photographers, you’ll be busy!
Day 11-16 (July 12-17)
Horse trip to Blue Lake. Your horse adventure begins. You ride about 3 hours to Tolgin Butts and camp in a beautiful meadow setting, with a late afternoon mountain walk to take in the beautiful Mongolian steepes. (Jul-13) The second day of our horse journey is an invigorating ride over beautiful mountain passes, past Buddhist Ovoos, through wild flower valleys to Mandal Mountain, a sacred place for the Mongols. 4 hour ride.
(July-14) The third day, invigorating walk to Mandal Mtn and meditation at sacred ovoo. Ride to Jargalantiin, past the five sacred springs visiting nomads along the way. 4 hour ride. (Jul-15) The forth day is to Blue Lake Valley, nestled high in the steepe region overlooking the glacial valleys and nomad camps. 4 hour ride. (Jul-16) The fifth day, we reach the magnificient Blue Lake, home of the lake goddess, Palden Lhamo. 2 hour ride. (Jul-17) The sixth day, we enjoy the solitude of the lake, with an optional circumambulation of the lake and a mountain walk. You’ll be camping in tents along the way and witness to starry nights.
Day 17 (July 18)
Jeep drive back to Bunkhan. For experienced riders, thunderhoof back to camp on your trusted steed.
Day 18 (July 19)
Rest day at Bunkhan, journal writing, and packing.
Day 20 (July 20-21)
Heading back to UB, with a stop at Tsetserleg to visit local Budhist monastery, overnite at Khankhar Khad, or Eden traditional ger camp and then enjoy a farewell dinner in Ullanbattor.
Day 21 (July 22)
Travel back home.
TRIP COST:
US$ 200/day,
19 days's = US$ 3800
deposit: $500.
PRICE INCLUDES:
Carroll Dunham/Thomas Kelly as guides, transport in Mongolia, all meals, lodging in hotels and gers, double occupancy, (single hotel occupancy extra supplement), ger living in Bunkhan, (two to a ger) horses, horsemen, saddles, hotels in UB, meals, airport transfers, museum entrance fees. Single Supplement occupancy ($300) Children under 12, US$100 (outside of UB only) in UB, US$200/day
PRICE DOES NOT INCLUDE:
International Air Travel.
Alcohol drinks or tips to the horseman and staff.
CANCELLATION POLICY:
Final payment is due May 1. In the event of cancellation within 31-70
days prior to departure date, there will be a refund of 75% of the land
portion of the trip fee. In the event of cancellation within 40 days
prior to the departure date, there will be a refund of 50% of the land
portion of the trip fee.
TRAVEL ARRANGEMENTS:
Early bookings strongly encouraged.
If you would like assistance with flight arrangements try Govinda Shahi
of Himalayan Travels. He can be reached in his No. California office on
Monday – Friday from 9am – 5pm at 1-800-223-1813 (or 510-222-5307) or
feel free to e-mail him at Govind@himalayantravels.com
Please fill out and return this form to Wild Earth Journeys/Thomas L. Kelly
Beware of Mongolia: It can be dangerously infectious. Was it the light, that golden late evening light that cascades down from a sky as vast as the ocean, or the space, all that wild raw, gentle space that just cleanses out the insides? Or was it galloping in thundering rain across the steppes on these jet-fueled steeds for miles, experiencing an unrivaled primal ecstasy that caused this viral infection to spread? Whatever the cause, the condition was severe: a complete case of Mongolian midsummer madness.
Lapis Sky Camp: Situated at (GPS coordinates: 47 16,067' E-101-08,762) , 42 km from Tsetserleg, the district capital of Arkhangai, Lapis Sky Camp is Mongolia's leading yoga and meditation camp. We welcome families, writers and Bohemian eccentrics. Relaxed, at ease, off the beaten track, nestled into the Bunkhan valley, this quiet enclave beside the Tamir River, where a sense of privacy and quiet exclusivity pervades. Yoga, Buddhist teachings, horse riding, poetry and wilderness combine to strengthen wind horse, vitality. Humor and a lightness of being are cultivated by mingling with the raw elements.
WHAT TO BRING TO MONGOLIA-SUGGESTIONS ONLY Dear Folks and Fellow Intrepid Travelers:
As we prepare to head off to the Mongol steppe, I feel obliged to burden you with obligatory information hopefully vaguely helpful relating to stuff and health. For those of you who already have a Lonely Planet Guide to Mongolia, disregard, for those who do not, I hope this will be helpful in someway and not too disconcerting. But best to be aware of the challenges and how to prevent them. I do recommend each person think about one's own health needs as we head out into the wilds. It is essential that everyone has a horse riding or mtn biking helmet or, and if you're prone to getting saddle sores, we can provide you with a saddle fleece but not chaps. It's recommended you bring a pair of chaps that will protect your calves. Alternatively, at the Black Market in UB, we can take you shopping for a pair of Mongol riding boots, about US$40 which will protect your calves from chapping. We have a collection of horse riding and mountain biking helmets left behind by past travelers but note they very in size and quality. If you wish to air on the safe side, please bring your own helmet.
WEATHER
Only in summer does cloud cover shield the sky. Humidity is zilch and sunshine intense. With over 260 sunny days a year, Mongolia is justifiably known as the "land of Blue Sky." Short rainy season from mid July to September, but the showers tend to be brief and gentle. Evenings are cool even in summer due to the relatively high altitude. Mongolia can be a windy place. When the wind blows from the north, temperatures drop sharply, but the weather warms up just as rapidly. One minute you're walking around in a t-shirt and sandals, the next you need an overcoat and boots, then its back to t-shirts. Temperature differences have been known to range over 37.5 C in one day. The summer is pleasant without being too hot. It can still suddenly turn cold.
A water resistant duffle bag that locks is best. I personally like combo locks that don't have keys. Once you're on the trail, you will soon realize that the less you have to deal with the better. I suggest you have one duffle bag and one-day pack. Keep your weight down to 20 kgs. I will have several extra water resistant duffle bags so if you find that your duffle bag is too cramped, we can help you out and back all the bags and mats together to free up some space for your essentials.
Plastic zip lock bags for gear, cameras, etc. to protect against the dirt, etc/ garbage bags are nice for ensuring that sleeping bags don't get wet and always find other uses.
CLOTHES
No special dress codes. In UB, dress freely. One pair of warm clothes is recommended. summer evenings can be chilly, especially at Madal Mountain. I brought my long john set, pile jacket, down vest, (layers work well) warm hat and I was happy--but I am skinny and hate to be cold. Excellent rain shell and pants long-sleeved non-wrinkle light shirt useful against sun and bugs. Pants are best for riding in, and thin, durable material that dries quickly is great. Two pairs. Lots of folks like photo vests, because of the many pockets...Good wide-brimmed hat and sunglasses essential. Shammy towel that dries quickly, Sports bras for ladies work well with horses and bumpy jeep rides. Boots that ride high up the calf are quite helpful for long horse rides to prevent chaffing. Thomas rides in Australian RM boots with chaffs. You can buy cheap but excellent leather riding boots in the Black market in UB for around $40.00
Please bring a down sleeping bag. We will provide sleeping mats and tents on our horse trip. What you bring is what you will sleep on, so make sure it makes you happy!
FISHING EQUIPMENT
For fishing on the Tamir for grayling, lenok it's best to use a collapsible spinning rod and real that fits in a hard case or breaks down into a portable zipping reinforced bag. Bring along strong test line, leaders, some bobbers and different sized lead weights. For spinners, you can bring different colored panthers, and other kinds (there's a professional fishing store in UB). It's also good to bring along some medium size hooks if you plan to fish with live grasshoppers. For those that plan to travel down to our camp, the fly fishing is excellent so you should have a fly rod and an assortment of flies grasshopper, irresistible, and some fly balm to keep the flies floating. If you're a hardcore fisherman, bring along a pair of fishing waiters with felt soles to keep you from slipping. A fishing net is also recommended.
Water bottle (1 liter, leak proof metal or nalagen, can double as a hot water bottle)
Torch (headlamps are always useful), mosquito repellant (with as much DEET as possible!), high factor sunscreen.
Shampoo packets are great and cut down on bulk rather than bottles. Best if possible is biodegradable soaps such as Dr Bonner's, etc. Wet wipes or anti-bacterial gel is useful as often there are few opportunities for bathing on the horse trip. We travel with solar showers and for those brave souls; you can always take a plunge into the streams. Bandana is always useful with dust.
Binoculars for bird lovers.
PHOTOGRAPHERS
If you wish to photograph while horse riding, a criss cross Snuggher Strap is recommend to prevent your camera from bouncing about. Alternatively, wear a Lowe Pro sling backpack. Fanny bags will rub against the back of your saddle. Camera backpacks can ride inside the support vehicles and will be close by most of the time.
We have a solar charger at our Lapis Sky camp for re-charging batteries. But once we’re on our way to Mandal mountain there’s no solar or electricity. Last year, Leo Well’s brought along a charger that worked by plugging it into the Russian jeep cigarette lighter device. We will have support vehicles traveling with us.
US dollars cash, money belt, a few pens, spare passport photos, Swiss army knife, spare camera batteries, compact digital cards, lighter, razor, razor blades, shaving cream, (UV) sunglasses, chap stick, tampons, dental floss, deodorant, ear plugs, pain killers.
SADDLES
We have Chinese Army leather-riding saddles, which were hand crafted in Ulaanbaatar and are plenty comfortable. They're similar to a Mongolian saddle in design but with much better padding. I also have five western Corduroy saddles.
TRAVEL INSURANCE
If ever there was a country where you needed travel insurance, Mongolia is it. With the outdoor lifestyle, unpredictable weather and bad roads, accidents are not uncommon. Agencies like Council Travel, Trail finders, Flight Centre, and Campus Travel sell insurance along with their tickets. Some policies specifically exclude 'dangerous activities' that can include horse riding. Ask about an amendment at a higher premium. Few, if any medical services in Mongolia will accept your foreign insurance documents for payment; you'll have to pay on the spot, get receipts for everything, save all the paperwork, and claim later. For Mongolia, a 'medivac' clause or policy, covering the costs of being flown to Beijing or Hong Kong or home is essential.
In case of injuries, we refer patients to:
SOS Medica Mongolia UB International Clinic.
The clinic is staffed with professional International
Doctors.
SOS Medica Mongolia UB International Clinic
4a Building, Big Ring Road, 15th Micro District
7th Khoroo, Bayanzurkh District, Mongolia
tele# +976-11-46-43-25, 46-43-26, 46-43-27
fax-+976-11-45-45-37
Email: admin@sosmedica.mn
Copies of all important documents, please bring 3 extra passport photos (passport data page and visa page, credit cards, travel insurance policy, air/train tickets, etc.) Leave one copy at home and keep another set with you separate from the originals.
EXCHANGING MONEY
Depending upon your spending habits and drinking habits, it's always good to have some extra cash at hand-$500-$1000 dollars depending what your taste in Mongol souvenirs is like.
At several banks and countless licensed moneychangers in UB, you can change most major European and Asian currencies. The US greenback is still the easiest to change in UB and is the only currency you might be able to change in the countryside. Note that moneychangers will give you a slightly better rate for new (post 1998) US dollar bills and for higher denominations. In the countryside anything larger than a US$20 will be hard to change. You can change US dollar traveler checks into US cash in UB for a 2% commission. American dollars can sometimes be changed for Tugrik at banks in aimag capitals but it is bound to take forever as officials try to figure out the official exchange rate, much lower than in the capital. Watch out for counterfeit American dollars in Mongolia. At present US$1=’s 1420 Tugrik
Most major banks and top-end hotels in UB will change traveler’s checks but only those in US dollars from major companies usually with no commission and minimum fuss. If you lose your American Express checks or credit card, or Thomas Cook checks, contact Trade and Development Bank in UB.
CREDIT CARDS
You can use Visa, MasterCard, and American Express in UB at top-end hotels, expensive souvenir shops, airline offices and most travel agencies. The Trade and Development Bank can arrange cash advance on your Visa, MasterCard, and American express Cards for 4% commission.
International transfers, tend to be wrought with problems. It can be done through the Trade and Development Bank and takes 3-5 days and costs $40 plus 0.01% of the amount transferred.
SECURITY
At some point in a trip to Mongolia most travelers end up carrying a fair amount of US dollars or Tugrik. All you can do is bury it deeply in your money belt and in several different places, with only small sums in wallets and outside pockets.
SUMMARY OF RISKS
Except for getting frostbite in winter, Mongolia is generally a healthy country to travel in. The dry cold climate and sparse human habitation means few infectious diseases that plague tropical countries.
In case of injuries, we refer patients to:
SOS Medica Mongolia UB International Clinic
4a Building, Big Ring Road, 15th Micro District
7th Khoroo, Bayanzurkh District, Mongolia
tele# +976-11-46-43-25, 46-43-26, 46-43-27
fax-+976-11-45-45-37
Email: admin@sosmedica.mn
We carry an Iridium Satt phone. Tele# 8816 315-60857
SUGGESTED MEDICAL KIT CHECK LIST
- Aspirin or paracetamol- for pain and fever
- Ibuprofen- for swelling, pain in knees, after injury
- Antihistamine- (diphenhydramine (benadryl) for allergies, hay fever, to ease itch from insect bites or stings, prevent motion sickness, itching, watery eyes, runny nose, relieves, hives, dermatitis. Dries up runny nose. Can make you quite drowsy. Pseudoephedrine (Sudafed) is a decongestant; it will make a congested nose run.
- Cold and flu tablets, throat lozenges, nasal decongestant
- Antibiotics
- Loperamide or diphehoxylate-'blockers' for diarrhea (Imodium or Lomotil)- Not to be used with fever or blood or pus in your stools
- Prochlorperazine or metaclopramide for nausea and vomiting Rehydration mixture
- Insect repellant, sunscreen, lip balm, eye drops
- Calamine lotion, sting relief spray or aloe vera- ease irritation from sunburn and insect bites and stings
- Antifungal cream or powder- for fungal skin infections and thrush
- Antiseptic (such as providone-iodine) for cuts and grazes
- Bandages, Bandaids (plasters), knee brace, ace bandage for wrapping, and other wound dressings
- Scissors, tweezers, and a thermometer ( note that mercury thermometers are prohibited on airlines)
- Pepto Bismol tablets
- Laxatives- Kaolin or Pectin
IMMUNIZATIONS
No specific vaccinations are legally required to enter Mongolia. Peace Corps Mongolia asks that volunteers have IPV (Inactivated Polio booster dose), Mumps, measles, rubella, typhoid, diphtheria, tetanus, rabies, hepatitis B, and Japanese Encephalitis B vaccine, Hepatitis A.
- Hepatitis A Hepatitis A vaccine (e.g. Avaxim, Havrix 1440 or VAQTA) provides long term immunity (possibly more than 10 years) after an initial injection and booster fix at six to 12 months, Alternatively, an injection of gamma globulin can provide short term protection against hepatitis A -2 to 6 months depending on the dose given. It is not a vaccine but a ready-made antibody collected from blood donations. It is reasonably effective and unlike a vaccine it is protective immediately, but because it is a blood product, there are current concerns about its long-term safety. Hepatitis A vaccine is also available in a combined form with hepatitis B vaccine. Three injections over six-month periods are required.
- Meningococcal Meningitis -A single injection gives good protection against the major epidemic forms of the disease for 3 years. Protection may be less effective in children under 2 years.
- Hepatitis B- Travelers who should consider vaccination against hepatitis B include those on a long trip, as well as those visiting countries with high levels of hepatitis B infection, where blood infusions may not be adequately screened or where sexual contact or needle sharing is a possibility. Vaccination involves three injections with a booster at 12 months. More rapid courses are available if necessary.
- Rabies- Vaccination should be considered by those who will spend a month or longher in the countryside. Pretravel rabies vaccination involves having 3 injections over 21 days. If someone vaccinated is bitten or scratched they will only require two booster injections.
ake sure you are healthy before you start traveling. Make sure your teeth are ok. If you wear glasses, take a spare pair.
BASIC RULES
FOOD
There is an old saying "if you can cook it, boil it, or peel it, you can eat it, otherwise forget it." Vegetables and fruit should be washed with purified water or peeled where possible.
Fortunately we will be using cooks who have experience cooking for westerners and understand our hygienic concerns.
WATER
Mongolians insist that the tap water in UB is safe to drink. However there can be occasions in later summer when the water becomes unsafe to drink--but public health alerts are issued. The number one rule is being careful of the water. If you don't know for certain that the water is safe, assume the worst. Surface water from rivers and lakes may well have been contaminated by livestock feces and should be purified.
It's essential to carry your water bottle with you, regardless of where you are traveling. Have a Steri Pen to zap any bacteria. Dairy products in the countryside are always unpasteurized and should, in theory, be treated with suspicion, though boiled milk is fine if kept hygienically.
WATER PREPARATION
Boiling is one completely satisfactory method to ensure safe drinking water. A rolling boil for 5 minutes is effective. Store boiled water in clean covered containers.
Iodine tablets may be used to treat water. One tablet per quart is sufficient, two if the water is cloudy or very cold. Mix well and allow to stand 25 minutes before use.
At our camp, we boil our water, and use Steri pens on our horse trips which emit ultra violet rays to zap any parasites.
Infectious diseases to be aware of in Mongolia: brucellosis, bubonic plague, diarrhea, hepatitis, and rabies.
Before you get angry and complain about why things just don't work as well as they could or should, take a second to think about what Mongolia has experienced and is still enduring: years of Chinese domination and Soviet Communism; a perverse climate; a terrible road and transport system; nomad lifestyle which rarely compliments western thinking and economics, a young, sparse population which suffers from poverty and poor health and unrestrained capitalism and development since 1990.
THEFT
Mongolia is a very safe country and Mongolian people are some of the friendliest and most helpful in Asia. Most Mongolians are very poor and foreign goodies are a real temptation. Theft is seldom and violence against foreigners, just opportunistic. Pick pocketing and bag slitting with razor blades are increasingly common on buses and in the Central Market, but not nearly as a rife as in China. Valuables should be kept in a money belt and buried under your clothes. Some people find this arrangement uncomfortable, so another alternative is to keep these valuables sewn inside of a vest (waistcoat.)
CAMPING
Mongolia is probably the greatest country in the world for camping. Local people and even a few curious cows or horses may come investigate our camping spots, but you are unlikely to encounter any hostility. Minimum Impact Camping:
Carry out all non-biodegradable rubbish. Or bury deeply. Make an effort to carry out rubbish left by others. -Where there is no toilet, choose a spot at least 100 m from any water source, bury your waste at least 6 inches deep, and bury or burn toilet paper, if possible. - Wash with biodegradable soap at least 50 m (160 feet) away from the watercourse. Disperse the water widely to allow the soil to filter it fully before it finally makes its way back to the watercourse.
Ensure that you fully extinguish a fire after use. Spread the embers and douse them with water. A fire is only truly safe to leave when you can comfortably place your hand on it.
Don't rely on bought water in plastic bottles. Disposal can be a major problem. Use purification tablets and boiled water instead.
HORSERIDING
One thing to bear in mind is that when mounting a horse do so only from the left. The animals have been trained to accept human approach from the left. Horse may rear if approached the wrong way. The Mongolians use the word chu! to make their horses go. Most important advice: watch and learn- Mongolians almost invented horsemanship-and be prepared for at least one good spill.
GHER WELCOME GIFTS
Vodka, sewing needles with large eyes thread for women, lighters, toothbrushes, toothpaste, notebooks, pens, pencils, hand mirrors, snuff, Swiss army knives, and pictures of the Dalai Lama. Make sure gifts are small, otherwise greater expectations for future visitors. Pick 3 or 4 items put in zip lock bag. To show respect and avoid arguments, give practical gifts with both hands to the oldest woman and the tobacco, snuff, matches to the oldest man. |